A note to razor sellers

So from time to time, you find yourself selling vintage shaving razors online or in your booth at the local flea market. Please keep these things in mind...

  • Take the old blade out. That old blade in the razor is worth nothing and collectors of razors don't want it. It's a safety hazard more than anything else. Do not ship a razor to a buyer with a blade still in it. You risk not only cutting yourself but the buyer too. And buyers certainly aren't going to actually shave with that old blade.
  • Just because it's old doesn't mean it's worth a lot of money. Condition sets the price. Only in rare instances does "age and rarity regardless of condition" set the price. You may have a 100 year old Gillette Single Ring that's got a split in the handle or a missing or bent comb tooth... but these are common razors, readily available. So don't even think you're going to get $200 for it in that condition when one in great condition can be had for $20 all day long on eBay. As I said, only in rare instances does the mantra of "condition be damned" apply to price. For example, a 1914 Gillette Aristocrat with a crack in the handle is still a fairly sought after piece for collectors because the 1914 Aristocrat is a somewhat rare piece. If you're a seller, do your research. Check online listings, including completed listings, and if you see a bunch of what you have, in better condition than yours, be realistic about the price.
  • If you don't know what you're doing, do not attempt to repair or polish a razor. The silver, gold, rhodium and nickel plating on most vintage razors is very thin and can be easily polished right off, especially gold-plated razors. So just don't do it if you don't know how to properly do it. In fact, many collectors prefer the age-related patina to be left alone. This is especially true for some of the more ornately designed razors from the late 1800s to 1920s. As for repairs, if you see a tooth is bent on the comb of a razor, leave it alone. These teeth break off real easy. Most American made vintage razors are made of brass under that shiny silver, gold, rhodium or nickel plating. Brass breaks and snaps easily. Same thing with the all too common cracks and splits in the razor handles. Leave them alone. Don't weld them, don't apply any kind of glue to them.
  • Be honest. If you have a razor replated, please have the courtesy to inform potential buyers that it has been replated. Once in hand, most knowledgable collectors can tell if a replate job has been done and then unless the collector doesn't mind, you find yourself having to issue a refund and take the razor back. Hardcore collectors don't want replated razors in their collections. They may want it to actually shave with but it's no good to a collector's collection.
  • Take good photos. If you don't, one of two things will happen... you'll either be bombarded with requests for better pictures or you won't get as much money as you think you should, or could. Do it right the first time. Take clear and well lit pictures from many different angles. Collectors want to see the whole thing. Get under the head, inside the head, the end of the handle... everything. If the razor has a case, take pictures of the inside of the case and lid as well as all four sides, bottom and top.

About me...

Gillette-i Master

A 38 year old guy, named J. Vincent Renaldo (it's Italian, not Mexican), who loves his other half (ball & chained for 7.5 years and loving every bit of it), his feline son Toko, University of Mississippi (Ole Miss) football and New Orleans Saints football, Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Beer, medium rare t-bone steaks and stuffing his own cigarettes (Three Sails tobacco and Beretta Elite tubes) - born, raised and living in Mississippi.

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